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The Good Hotel Guide
The Queensberry
In April 2003, Stephen and Penny Ross sold their upmarket small hotel
/ restaurant to Laurence Beere (formerly manager of the Royal Crescent
Hotel, qv) and his wife, Helen. Composed of four 'very pretty' adjoining
town houses, designed by John Wood for the Marquis of Queensberry in 1772,
it is on a residential street near the Assembly Rooms ('an excellent location').
Mr Beere tells us that all the staff, including the head chef, Jason Horn,
have stayed on and no major changes are planned apart, perhaps, from some
refurbishment in early 2004. Inspectors, visiting shortly after the takeover,
were impressed: 'A remarkably civilised place. Reception was faultless,
service was excellent. We enjoyed the contrast between the rather grand,
but unstuffy, decor and atmosphere of the hotel (like staying in a comfortable,
elegantly furnished home) and the informal ambience of the Olive Tree
restaurant'. Flower baskets hang in front in summer; 18th-century stucco
ceilings, cornices and panelling set off a contemporary decor and modern
watercolours. 'We particularly admired the wooden banister rails, with
their highly developed patina. Antiques abound'. The drawing room is attractive
in yellow and blue ('proper tea' is served here in smart white china).
Stairways have a dark blue carpet and cream paintwork. Some bedrooms,
and the small bar, open on to the four charming small terraced gardens
on different levels at the rear: 'With shrubs and plenty of garden furniture,
a pleasant location for aperitifs in summer'. 'Our front room, No. 8,
on the first floor was large, and had little traffic noise; an enormous
antique wardrobe, a huge, very comfortable bed, good cotton sheets. Bathroom
narrow but adequate'. Higher up, rooms are smaller and cheaper. Light
meals and a continental breakfast ('the usual fresh fruit, cereals, croissants,
etc') can be brought to the bedrooms. A cooked breakfast (£9.50
extra) is served in the 'cheerful', light basement Olive Tree restaurant
(on three levels, with pink walls, and rugs on a tiled floor). At night,
candles burn here, and 'modern British / Mediterranean' dishes are served
on à la carte and a no-choice set menu. 'We enjoyed chicken and
foie gras tortellini with a hazelnut and red wine jus; roast saddle of
lamb with parsley mash and thyme gravy; champagne and strawberry trifle.
Quality was outstanding; sauces were intense and full of flavour. The
comprehensive wine list is reasonably priced; several wines available
by the glass'. The help with parking is appreciated.
Open: All year.
Rooms: 3 suites, 26 double. Some on ground floor.
Facilities: Lift. 2 drawing rooms, bar, restaurant; meeting
room. No background music. 4 courtyard gardens. Unsuitable for disabled.
Location: 100 yds from Assembly Rooms. Take Bennett St
left off Lansdown Rd, then 1st right. Private and street parking.
Restrictions: No smoking: restaurant, bedrooms. No dogs.
Credit Cards: MasterCard, Visa.
Terms: B&B: double £80-£195, suite £175-£285.
English breakfast £9.50. Set lunch £13.50, dinner £26;
full alc £32. Winter breaks. 1-night bookings refused weekends.
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