The Good Hotel Guide
The Queensberry


In April 2003, Stephen and Penny Ross sold their upmarket small hotel / restaurant to Laurence Beere (formerly manager of the Royal Crescent Hotel, qv) and his wife, Helen. Composed of four 'very pretty' adjoining town houses, designed by John Wood for the Marquis of Queensberry in 1772, it is on a residential street near the Assembly Rooms ('an excellent location'). Mr Beere tells us that all the staff, including the head chef, Jason Horn, have stayed on and no major changes are planned apart, perhaps, from some refurbishment in early 2004. Inspectors, visiting shortly after the takeover, were impressed: 'A remarkably civilised place. Reception was faultless, service was excellent. We enjoyed the contrast between the rather grand, but unstuffy, decor and atmosphere of the hotel (like staying in a comfortable, elegantly furnished home) and the informal ambience of the Olive Tree restaurant'. Flower baskets hang in front in summer; 18th-century stucco ceilings, cornices and panelling set off a contemporary decor and modern watercolours. 'We particularly admired the wooden banister rails, with their highly developed patina. Antiques abound'. The drawing room is attractive in yellow and blue ('proper tea' is served here in smart white china). Stairways have a dark blue carpet and cream paintwork. Some bedrooms, and the small bar, open on to the four charming small terraced gardens on different levels at the rear: 'With shrubs and plenty of garden furniture, a pleasant location for aperitifs in summer'. 'Our front room, No. 8, on the first floor was large, and had little traffic noise; an enormous antique wardrobe, a huge, very comfortable bed, good cotton sheets. Bathroom narrow but adequate'. Higher up, rooms are smaller and cheaper. Light meals and a continental breakfast ('the usual fresh fruit, cereals, croissants, etc') can be brought to the bedrooms. A cooked breakfast (£9.50 extra) is served in the 'cheerful', light basement Olive Tree restaurant (on three levels, with pink walls, and rugs on a tiled floor). At night, candles burn here, and 'modern British / Mediterranean' dishes are served on à la carte and a no-choice set menu. 'We enjoyed chicken and foie gras tortellini with a hazelnut and red wine jus; roast saddle of lamb with parsley mash and thyme gravy; champagne and strawberry trifle. Quality was outstanding; sauces were intense and full of flavour. The comprehensive wine list is reasonably priced; several wines available by the glass'. The help with parking is appreciated.

Open: All year.

Rooms: 3 suites, 26 double. Some on ground floor.

Facilities: Lift. 2 drawing rooms, bar, restaurant; meeting room. No background music. 4 courtyard gardens. Unsuitable for disabled.

Location: 100 yds from Assembly Rooms. Take Bennett St left off Lansdown Rd, then 1st right. Private and street parking.

Restrictions: No smoking: restaurant, bedrooms. No dogs.

Credit Cards: MasterCard, Visa.

Terms: B&B: double £80-£195, suite £175-£285. English breakfast £9.50. Set lunch £13.50, dinner £26; full alc £32. Winter breaks. 1-night bookings refused weekends.

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