The Good Hotel Guide 2005


Laurence and Helen Beere, who took over in 2003, have refurbished the public areas of their "remarkably civilized" hotel "wonderfully located" on a residential street near the Assembly Rooms.

Composed of four adjoining town houses designed by John Wood for the Marquis of Queensberry in 1772, it has 18th-century stucco ceilings, antiques and modern watercolours.

Inspectors in 2004 were impressed by their welcome: "The porter, a star, carried bags to our room and parked our car for no charge. Reception was friendly." A glass roof and white paint create a light feel, and a rabbit warren of corridors leads to the bedrooms. "Ours, slightly quirky (bathroom down a flight of steps), was decorated in uncluttered taste. It looked down over a residential street. At night, silence reigned." One couple however complained of being given a small, poorly maintained back room when they had reserved a deluxe at the front; another thought their room at the top "overpriced".

Some bedrooms and the bar, open on to the four terraced gardens on different levels at the rear, "with shrubs and garden furniture, nice for aperitifs in summer". The contrast between the "rather grand but unstuffy" décor and atmosphere of the hotel, and the informal ambience of the basement Olive Tree restaurant, "nicely set out in three rooms", is liked.
Chef Jason Horn serves "modern British / Mediterranean" dishes on a carte, and a no-choice set menu. "Super cuisine," one couple wrote. Others called it "enjoyable rather than outstanding", "We liked the fish dishes and elderflower jelly. Pity about the dull, overloud muzak." "Quality was outstanding; sauces full of flavour. Wines a reasonably priced, several available by the glass." "Cheerful young staff." "Good scrambled eggs at breakfast", but one couple found the service "disorganized". Light meals and continental breakfast can be brought to bedrooms.