The Independent on Sunday, 25th July 2004
By Nick Coleman


The Location
Russel Street, Bath, is the way you want it to be: honey coloured Georgian elegance untarnished by bourgeois spit and polish, on a slight gradient at the top of the city centre, minutes' walk from the Royal Crescent, a few more to the shopping centre. No good for parking, mind, but they'll do it for you on arrival.

The food and drink
The Queensberry comes with a really good "contemporary British" restaurant attached. No, Really. The Olive Tree is out of a very high drawer indeed. "This slow-braised shoulder of lamb is just about the most delicious I have ever tasted, ever" gasped my beloved, between mouthfuls. "And the seared scallops were sensational examples of the genre." The restaurant, which is down yet more twisty stairs - is penumbral , simple, grey-ish in hue, up-lit and down-lit and you have to book, because the people of Bath form orderly queues to eat here too. I have nothing but contempt for most hotel cooking, but not this. And the prices were bang on.

The people
Other guests were inconspicuous, except in The Olive Tree, where they were everywhere and chic. What staff were encountered were amiable, obliging and not at all narcissistic.

The access
Wheelchair access is possible (though tricky for The Olive Tree: there are four unavoidable steps) and there is a lift. Children are welcome but not pets.