The Birmingham Post
Saturday July 30, 2005


Hotel's regal charms

Bath has a certain style that sets it apart. Travel Editor Paul Groves finds a hotel that fits perfectly into this most elegant of cities.

It is said that first impressions are all-important. If that is true, then The Queensberry had earned itself plenty of Brownie points long before we reached the city of Bath.

Previous experience of this elegant, sophisticated city had taught me that driving through the centre can be nothing short of maddening. Whatever the time of day, you can find yourself snarled up in traffic and we were heading into Bath on a hot Friday evening at the start of the main summer rush.
So, having survived the dreaded M5 and the less taxing M4 on the journey down, we approached the junction for Bath with a little trepidation.
However, this is where The Queensberry's owners - Laurence and Helen Beere - pull their first masterstroke.

As my navigator read out the directions we had downloaded from the hotel's website, it was clear we were being taken on a more scenic route into the city centre.

The Queensberry is ideally located close to the impressive Guildhall and the heart of the main tourist traps. And yet, we cruised through open countryside, along a few quiet streets lined with palatial houses and within no time at all we were pulling up outside our hotel - not a traffic queue or tourist bus in sight.
I was relieved of my car keys - blissfully for the rest of our stay - and we completed the usual formalities. By the time we walked into our spacious, handsome bedroom our luggage had already been removed from the boot and deposited next to the walk-in wardrobe and our car parked safely away.
The Queensberry occupies four classic Georgian townhouses near the centre of the city and the Beeres' have carefully transformed the long-established hotel into a rare gem.

Each of the 29 bedrooms make full use of their classical origins and yet there is a modern style and sophistication that works superbly. Ours had a comfortably squashy king-size bed and still sufficient room for a large coffee table around which a large, corner sofa offered equally sumptuous lounging potential. You go out to the hallway and walk-in wardrobe to reach the bathroom - an expansive room, simply and subtly decorated with a large bath and the type of powerful shower few hotels seem to provide these days.

The temperature had been nudging 30°C for most of the day and even with all the windows - original sash frames, obviously - open, it was still quite stuffy. Thankfully, the Beeres have opted against air conditioning (my one pet hate with most hotels) and instead we made use of the electric fan, which wafted cooling air across us as we took a few moments before heading down to the hotel's award-winning restaurant.

Too often, fine hotels are let down by their restaurants, and vice versa. It is possible to find the complete package and it was certainly in evidence at The Queensberry.

The cool, understated appeal of the hotel itself is more than mirrored in the Olive Tree restaurant. Situated in the basement, this time it was pleasing to feel air conditioning (restaurants are fine, it is hotel bedrooms I draw the line at) and despite being full, it didn't feel at all oppressive. Clever use of large mirrors actually deceive you into thinking the restaurant is twice its actual size.

The Olive Tree is feted as one of the best in the West Country and it is easy to see why. The staff are excellent, attentive without crowding you, and the menu offers up plenty of choice.

We ended up eating there for both nights of our stay, simply because the quality was so high. As with all the best restaurants, high quality ingredients were prepared and presented simply and the dishes are allowed to speak for themselves. Both nights provided the most satisfying experience we've had in a restaurant for some time and if you're going to try anything, go for the fresh strawberries with clotted cream ice-cream.
And for wine buffs, the Beeres have diligently assembled a list of some of the finest wines from all over the world. The wine list alone has won international plaudits and you can be assured of getting simple, enthusiastic advice if you're unsure what to try.

Bath has plenty to offer and is a regular fixture for overseas tourists. The Roman baths and rich Georgian architecture are world renowned and deservedly so. But you should take the time to stroll off the main tourist tracks.

There are some wonderful side streets and arcades worth exploring as they provide the perfect antidote to the cloned high street stores you can find anywhere else in the country.

Specialist, independent shops offer something of a throwback and whatever you are looking for, antiques, designer wear, jewellery, vintage clothes and much more, can be found with a bit of exploring. There are also plenty of little restaurants and café bars to keep you refreshed as you stroll around - if you're passing Clarke's, close to the river, or Bar Chocolate, a bit further along, then go in and enjoy their impressive menus.

But the real treat remained The Queensberry. The hotel welcomes you in and makes you feel you're the only guest right throughout your stay.
The building is a delight, too. There is a lovely courtyard at the rear which on a hot, sunny late afternoon is the perfect place to unwind before dinner with a cooling drink.

There are also several stylish drawing rooms, each with its own individual character and a warm, welcoming bar. You really are inspired to kick back, relax and be treated to a refined stay wherever you find yourself in The Queensberry.

If you're staying on the first floor or above, it is also worth taking the effort of climbing the stairs rather than taking the lift. You get a sense of how the four grand houses have been combined to make superb boutique hotel thanks to various levels you encounter and the little staircases that link them.

On the weekend we visited, there was a food market taking place, with a fantastic range of freshly produced, organic products available, and some specially imported treats. We assembled a picnic of locally produced cheeses, hams, bread and some amazing olives and potent pickled onions that formed an ideal meal on our drive home.